Whether toast is done properly depends on how you choose the three components. Here are a few suggestions that you don’t need to follow but are essential.

Bread. The bread should tend towards sour. In this example I have chosen a sourdough, which is a safe bet. In addition to having the word ‘sour’ in it, I asked the nice lady at the shops to slice the loaf before mine own eyes. Sour and yet fresh. An impressive start to this toast.

Butter. The butter should be a little bit salty. Putting this on your bread should be the first thing you do. It was the second thing I did because I began by drinking champagne (what some people refer to as “prep”).

Spread. An ideal spread is a jam. More than jam, it should be something from your childhood, the memory of which forms an unassailable beachhead that renders moot the criticisms launched by your gastro-whatever food snob friends.

Once you have added your spread to the buttered bread, you have a nice piece of toast to eat.

I like to put butter and spread on a corner of the bread as I go. This affords variety in the memories chosen. Here I chose two memories: eating toast at the counter in our London flat as a boy and eating toast as a slightly older boy on a bench at university without enough money to buy both good butter and good jam.


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